What is It?
Kava (also called Yaqona, or grog) is a non-alcoholic, non-narcotic beverage made from the ground root of the pepper plant. Far from being spicy, though, the drink actually numbs the lips and tongue slightly for a few moments. Not to worry, though--this effect is short-lived and subtle. It takes a lot to have any effect on the average person, but after several cups, you may begin to feel slightly more relaxed than you were (if that's possible in a tropical paradise like Fiji). Kava contains massive amounts of vitamin B, a natural muscle relaxant and anti-depressant. Drink enough, and you'll start to feel aggressions and tensions melt away (again, assuming you had any to start with). Too much, and you'll find yourself too, well, groggy to do much of anything. If this happens, relax (you won't have a choice). It won't last long.

Unlike alcohol, kava is not considered addictive, and does not produce much of a hangover the morning after. In fact, kava is said to be the "anti-alcohol," because where alcohol promotes aggression, kava dulls violent tendencies. Of course, it also decimates your energy level--don't count on sticking to an ambitious sightseeing schedule after a kava ceremony. You'll feel more like trudging back to your room for a nap. It's also not a good idea to drive after over-indulging. While kava doesn't directly affect motor skills, the deep relaxation and sleepiness it induces don't set the stage for careful driving.

One other side effect to be aware of: Kava is a diuretic, so plan accordingly.

A Traditional Kava Ceremony
Kava has always played a large ceremonial role in Fijian culture. Traditionally, the drink is served to village chiefs and high-ranking tribe members in solemn ceremonies. These gatherings are as full of ritual and etiquette as a Japanese tea ceremony, and mark important village occasions such as marriage, birth, death, and the installation of new chiefs.

The ceremony begins with guests (mostly, if not all men) presenting the chief with a gift of kava roots. Each one gives a short speech explaining the purpose of the visit. The chief accepts the roots, and the designated mixer begins preparing the beverage. Once upon a time, women chewed kava root to ready it for use, but it is now ground with a mortar and pestle. After grinding the root, the powder is wrapped in a cloth. A large wooden bowl called a tanoa is filled with cold water. (Once you know what to look for, you'll see these four-legged vessels everywhere, from hotel lobbies to the backs of Fijian one-cent pieces.) The cloth is dunked in the water, and kneaded by hand, forcing water through the sack.

Once the mixer determines that the brew has reached the desired strength, it's time to drink. Ritual dictates that the first cup (always made out of a coconut shell) is served to the guest of honor. The receiver claps once before drinking. When he's done, everyone claps three times. The second cup goes to the master of ceremonies, and the third goes to the most powerful local dignitary in attendance. Cups four through six go to others in the entourage of the chiefs. Except for the ritual clapping, and the crowd's muttering "maca" ("empty") after each cup, there is total silence.

When the sixth dignitary has finished his cup, the ceremony is officially over. However, chances are that many more bowls of kava will be prepared and drunk informally by everyone before the night is through.

Kava Today
Today, kava is practically the national drink, enjoyed by both men and women socially in ceremonies marking nothing more momentous than the setting of the sun. Workplaces often have kava breaks for employees, and its not unheard of to serve kava at business meetings to put everyone in the proper non-confrontational frame of mind. Hotels often serve kava in the evenings to guests in ceremonies mimicking the old tribal traditions. If you make the acquaintance of any locals while in Fiji (not hard to do in one of the friendliest countries on Earth), you may be lucky enough to be invited to an informal but utterly authentic social kava gathering.

Although it's not reserved for cannibal kings anymore, there are a few social conventions you should still observe and respect when drinking kava. First, a gift of kava root (preferably hand-ground, not whole roots) is appreciated. You can find it at just about any outdoor market in any town. Pick up a half-kilo or more--a half kilo should cost about F$15 (less than US $10). Place it in the center of the circle of guests, and say a few words to introduce yourself to the group. Also, be sure to take off your shoes before joining the circle.

You will quickly notice that silence is no longer a part of friendly kava ceremonies. In fact, kava drinking among commoners is a very social ritual, full of talking, laughing, and often, music. Strict hierarchies are no longer part of kava drinking, either--but you will probably notice that men are served first. If you are a woman remember that you are a guest and this is probably not the time or place to launch an ERA crusade.

When you are served, clap once before you take the cup, and say "bula" (health) just before drinking the kava. When you've drained your cup, clap three times after giving it back to whomever served you.

An etiquette note: Kava has a brownish-gray color not unlike river water, and a strong taste that takes getting used to. But try your best to finish at least one cup. If you really hate it, you can probably respectfully decline more. But to refuse the first cup, or to hand it back unfinished would be an insult to your hosts. Just swallow it down in big gulps as quickly as you can, and you'll get through it. It doesn't burn or linger on the tongue the way alcohol does. You might even like it. You will certainly be able to say that you experienced true Fijian culture on your trip.•